A group of twenty traveled to Scotland as the first of what is known as Trinity Pilgrimages. We set out to explore the faith and life of the Celtic saints of Christianity. The Celtic saints are the earliest keepers of the faith in what is now known as the British Isles. They lived and served in the earliest years of Christian life in the Celtic world (c. AD 300–900). They are in contrast to the Roman saints who arrived with St. Augustine in Canterbury in 597. 

The island of Iona

Celtic saints lived and served primarily in Ireland, Scotland, Wales, and the Southwestern coast of England, mainly Cornwall. Celtic saints were fiercely Orthodox and Trinitarian, yet they had a deeply expansive connection with the created order, seeing it as a reflection of God. They grew up in and around religious beliefs that viewed creation as God, so they were skilled at describing how creation is not God, but rather a witness to God. They also had a more inclusive view toward women’s leadership, mystery, and were skilled in meeting native persons and native beliefs on their own terms. Roman saints were more concerned with conformity to the Roman hierarchy and liturgical practices. 

A church on Iona

St. Ninnian was the first Celtic saint within the Scottish borders. He lived c. 360–427. We visited the area known as St. Ninnian’s monastery in Whithorn. There was a thriving, large Christian community there, and the ruins remain to this day. 

The other Celtic saint of Scotland that makes the top list is St. Columba. An Irish native, St. Columba arrived on a small island off the west coast, which he called Iona. There, a thriving monastic community lived, and from there they set out to convert the Pictish peoples of the land. We visited Iona on an overcast, very windy day, nearly missing our ferry due to a potential shutdown caused by weather conditions. Iona is a special place in so many ways. One of the oldest “high crosses” in the world is located there, the St. John’s Cross. St. Columba is known to more people than nearly any other Celtic saint because one of his successor abbots wrote a book about him, describing all his miracles, both in life and death. His legend grew and grew, making him the Celtic saint par excellence. 

St. Mungo is the patron saint of the city of Glasgow, Scotland. The main cathedral in Glasgow (Presbyterian) is the site of his burial and was for many years a pilgrimage site for Christians from around the world. St. Mungo lived in the same generation as St. Columba, and it is known that they met, supported, and encouraged each other in their ministries. St. Mungo, too, was called to help convert the Pictish people of the area. 

A wall hanging recounting the consecration of Samuel Seabury, the first bishop of the Episcopal church.

We attended evensong at Holy Trinity Scottish Episcopal Church in Ayr, Scotland, on Sunday evening. Some of us also participated in evensong at St. Mary’s Cathedral of the Scottish Episcopal Church in Edinburgh, mid-week. The Scottish Episcopal Church is connected to the American Episcopal Church in that our first bishop, Samuel Seabury, was consecrated by the bishops of the Scottish Episcopal Church. We saw some of his “relics” at St. Mary’s, including his consecration certificate and the sermon preached at his service. 

On the way to Iona

St. Giles is not a Celtic saint. He’s French. But we did visit St. Giles Cathedral (Presbyterian), which is on the main (Royal Mile) in Edinburgh. The church is named for St. Giles simply because one early Scottish king liked the story of this French saint, who, it is said, withdrew deep into the forest, where he spent many years in solitude, his sole companion being his beloved deer, or red deer, which in some stories is said to have sustained him on her milk. St. Giles ate a vegetarian diet. Eventually, his retreat was discovered by the king's hunters, who had pursued the deer to its place of refuge. An arrow shot at the deer wounded the saint instead, who afterwards became a patron of the physically disabled. 

St. Andrew's church

St. Andrew is not a Celtic saint either, yet he is the patron saint of all Scotland. A visit to his town, St. Andrew, is a must in Scotland. According to legend, St. Andrew appeared to King Angus of Scotland in a vision, promising a victory in battle, which led the king to vow that St. Andrew would become the patron saint. One of the largest monastic communities in Scotland was at St. Andrew. Its ruins remain to this day and stand just on the outskirts of today’s thriving downtown. 

Along the way, we visited sites that included other figures of the faith, including St. Margaret of Scotland, as well as sites of castles, kings, and queens, such as those of William Wallace and Robert the Bruce. We also took a detour to see if we could find Nessie, of the Loch Ness fame. I did! Take a look at the photo. 

Nessie?

The Celtic Saints inform our faith to this day. I could say much more, but we were reminded of their independence, their ability to respect local traditions while being clear about the grace of Jesus, their awe of mystery, and their connection with creation. They continue to teach us. 

Where to next?

Scott+